Most climbing shoes are constructed from rubber. So it is normal for them to stretch out over the first few hours of use. Although it may be tempting to buy a pair of shoes that are snug and expect that they will become more comfortable with time, this is a terrible idea since climbing shoes that are too tight can cause injury to your feet.
To get a good idea of how tight your climbing shoes should be, please read on.
Why Should I Choose Narrow Rock Climbing Shoes?
When pioneers like Joe Brown, a British postwar climber, started climbing in plimsolls, others discovered that the tighter the shoe, the better you can climb. This is because there is less material between your foot and the rock, which makes your feet more sensitive and enables them to be placed with precision and technique. This is in contrast to the cumbersome boots we wore in the past, which prevented us from performing the delicate footwork required for more difficult routes.
Climbing shoes have come a long way since then and are now designed to be as comfortable as possible while providing the precision required for advanced climbing. Narrow shoes are generally considered the best option for climbers, as they offer a more comfortable fit and greater precision.
If you’re new to climbing, it’s important to choose a pair of shoes that are comfortable and fit well. Once you’ve been climbing for a while, you can experiment with different types of shoes to see what works best for you. However, narrow shoes are generally the best option for most climbers.
What are the Dangers Associated with Having Tight Climbing Shoes?
At some point or another, each of us has probably entertained the idea of attempting to improve our climbing abilities by squeezing our feet into progressively smaller shoes in the futile belief that this will make the ascent easier. Climbers need to be aware of the potential harm that can be caused to their climbing shoes if they try to fit themselves into a size that is too small for their comfort level.
Infection of the Toenail
Climbers try to maintain their toenails long to maximize the amount of crimp space available in their shoes and to maximize the amount of time they can spend climbing. The unfortunate side effect of this is that we frequently cut them too short because our shoes are too tight, which can lead to a severe infection.
Bunions
A staggering 54 percent of climbers have bunions, compared to the average of 4 percent of the general population. Bunions are probably brought on by our shoes being too small, therefore it is important to keep this in mind if you are considering dropping a size down.
Hallux Rigidus
This is a condition that causes your big toe to become somewhat rigid. This condition is typically caused by overexertion, which is something that the majority of climbers are guilty of.
Calluses
If your shoes are too small for your feet, the rubber on the soles of your shoes may rub against certain areas of your skin. This can result in the formation of calluses or pressure points, which can be extremely painful if the shoes are worn repeatedly and may even cause permanent damage in some cases.
Ankle Weakness
Tight climbing shoes cause your toes to be close together and connected as one unit, which makes it extremely difficult for the ankle and foot to absorb the impact of a fall. This can lead to an increase in the risk of ankle weakness.
In the same way that we take care of our hands by applying various balms and healing creams, we should also take care of our feet in the same manner. Your feet’s health is not something you should ignore if you want to improve as a climber because it will affect your performance.
What are aggressive shoes?
Aggressive shoes have downturned toes and heel tension to keep your feet in a strong position for challenging overhanging climbs. Most aggressive shoes have an asymmetric shape with curves toward the big toe, focusing power over the toe for precise placements on small holds. These shoes are often uncomfortable for all-day wear and aren’t recommended for beginners. If you want to improve your performance on overhanging climbs, aggressive shoes may be a good option.
Should I Use Normal Climbing Shoes, or Should I Use Aggressive Climbing Shoes?
Most climbers are under the impression that wearing a snug pair of aggressive shoes will improve their climbing grades. It’s possible that this is a widespread urban legend, but it’s not anything genuine. As is the case with the vast majority of climbing shoes, aggressive shoes excel at overhanging terrain because this is the terrain for which they were designed. Because of how the shoe is shaped, your toes can latch onto the grips even when your feet are at an angle. This indicates that if you have access to a gym or local crag that has a significant number of overhangs, it may be beneficial for you to invest in a pair of shoes that are more aggressive. In that case, you can find that your performance is much improved by switching to a pair of natural shoes or coming somewhere in the middle with a pair of moderate shoes.
Fitting Advice for Climbing Shoes
Finding a pair of rock climbing shoes that suit your feet is one of the most critical considerations. Comparison shop beforehand and try on several different models if at all possible. The following are some useful fit recommendations that may assist you in finding the proper shoes:
- Your feet might swell up to a full size during the day, so it’s best to do your shopping in the afternoon. Before you go shopping, try going for a stroll, going for a run, or even better, climbing. It is important to keep in mind that you will most likely not be wearing socks because the interiors of shoes are meant to operate in conjunction with the skin to prevent slipping. Purchase a pair of comfy shoes that are roughly a half size larger than you normally would if you plan on hiking in colder climates such as the mountains.
- The only way to know for sure is to try them on. It is best to shop in stores rather than online so you can readily try various sizes. When making purchases online, it is advisable to order many sizes and send back the ones that don’t work out. You should try on the shoes at home to ensure there are no pressure points.
- Be adaptable when finding the right size, as there is no universal standard for the sizing of rock shoes and everyone’s feet are different. There are standard sizes for rock shoes in the United States, Europe, and the United Kingdom. Check out the size conversion charts on the shoe website.
Remember that a size 42 from one brand will fit differently than a size 42 from another brand, even though both brands use the same measurement system. Even if the same last is used, the fit of a pair of rock shoes will change if the materials or design are altered, which is standard practice among rock shoe manufacturers.
- Before putting on a pair of shoes with laces, you should loosen all of the knots and then retie them in the appropriate order, working your way up from the toes to the ankles.
Have a clear idea of the size you need: Rock shoes don’t need to have a painful fit; in fact, having foot pain when climbing will prohibit you from reaching your maximum climbing potential and may cause other issues such as blisters, bunions, and calluses.
On the other hand, a shoe in which your toes are slightly bent at the knuckles will allow you to achieve a higher level of performance. The foot is propelled forward in the shoe when the slingshot heel rand, the rubber that wraps around the heel and attaches to the midsole, becomes more restrictive. This not only places the toes in a stronger posture, but also maintains their current condition of being bent to crimped.
Some generic fitting rules:
You should avoid wearing shoes with dead space between the inside of the shoe and your toes since this type of shoe will not maintain its shape when your toes are placed on a footing.
Check that the tips of your toes are either lying flat or are comfortably curled and that the knuckles of your toes are not painfully pressed up against the top of your shoe.
Your heel must have a close fit. When standing on your tiptoe, check to see that the back of the shoe is not putting pressure on the Achilles tendon at the base of the tendon.
There is a certain variation in how people’s feet bend, but if a shoe is difficult to put on your foot, it is generally too tight.
The shoe’s fit will generally be more constricting if it has a higher performance rating.
Conclusion
Choosing a pair of shoes that fit well and are comfortable is important, as this will help prevent injuries. Narrow shoes are generally the best option for most climbers, as they offer greater precision. However, it is important to experiment with different types of shoes to see what works best for you.